life back home

Oh yea, there’s also that life going on back in the northern hemisphere. Like the sprinkler system whose settings still reflect winter conditions (ours is the dry and dying lawn across the street, photo taken from Kim and Steve’s front door). The decision about whether to pull up all (irrigated, non-native, water-sucking) front lawn grass and convert to other drought-tolerant plants may have been made for us! Though we can’t plant new things until late fall when the weather cools again.

 

Now that Chris’s primary teaching responsbilities are over, he’s been prepping for the three classes he’ll be teaching this fall at Redlands. Last week we learned that he and one of his colleagues in Environmental Studies (Wendy McIntyre) received a grant from HP for teaching their field-based courses with new technologies (tablet pcs, gps, digital cameras, etc.). All good, and now they have to do the work! I’ve been trying to get him do write a guest posting on the blog. Send him an email (sinton@verizon.net) with encouragement.

 

When we do return to California in 4 weeks, it won’t be for long. We “don’t work” in the summers, according to our faculty contracts, and by June 18 we’ll be in Vermont. Six weeks or so of travels, visits, and vacation around New England. When we’re in Middlebury we’ll also close on the Monroe St house sale, fingers crossed! Last month we signed the contract with mixed feelings: thrilled at the financial prospect of not owning two homes (not to mention the rented one in Argentina!), but twinges of nostalgic regret for cutting off this tangible connection to our old life. The new owners will be incoming Middlebury faculty with young kids, and we have good images of their enjoying the home we built.

 

Thanks to all the people in the States who are keeping this “life back home” running smoothly: Kim, Steve, Nathan, Monica, Theresa, Ingrid, and unnamed others. I send my appreciative thoughts of this while I am sitting in a neighborhood coffee shop (with wi-fi), sipping my café con leche, drafting the syllabus for my fall class on spatial thinking, an instant messaging with my sister in Mexico. Emily, my trusty companion, reads her book and comments on the people walking by. I’m thinking the people around here don’t worry too much about their grass turning brown.

Argentina Day 2, Day 51

It’s all so old that it’s new again. What better way to spend time in the modern world then checking hair for nits (circa 300 BCE) while listening to downloaded podcasts of NPR’s Wait Wait, Don’t Tell Me.

Animals of Argentina

Animals of Argentina

Guest Post by Julia I. Sinton
Almost every house in Argentina has either a cat or a dog. We give names to the animals we see a lot. Some have homes and some are stray.Ralphy is a dog who has a home but he dug a hole under his fence so he can get out. He likes to go around the neighborhood and this makes other dogs bark at him.

Bruce is really a girl but we gave her that name before we figured it out. Bruce is a very sturdy and fat dog who lives downtown. She’s a stray but she’s well-fed.

Shadow is also a stray but not so well-fed. Sometimes Dad calls her Lucky because she’s lucky to be alive. But Eric and Mom named her Shadow because sometimes she follows you around town when you’re walking. One time Dad let her inside our gate so she was on our property and gave her some food.

Daisy is our family’s favorite. She lives down our street and has a home. She is playful and energetic and always wants some petting. You don’t see her all the time because she’s inside her home a lot. She jumps up on the fence and wants to be pet, then she runs down to the next section of fence and wants petting there too, and then the last section of fence, even though there she has to get behind some prickly bushes to get her head to the petting place.

A couple of blocks down from Daisy’s house is a rundown house we call the Crazy Cat House. The Crazy Cat House has six kittens and four older cats. We give the cats food but they don’t let us pet them.

Cheetoh is an orange cat that has a home but wanders around the neighborhood. She loves to be petted and she doesn’t mind dogs.

Cowhead Jr. and Skittles Jr. are named after our cats in California. They look almost exactly like them. They love to be pet but we don’t see them everytime we go by. These cats even like to be picked up and put on Emily’s lap in her wheelchair.

This is the story of the animals of Argentina.

profiting from your dreams


The other day someone at Chris’s office gave him a handy bookmark. Handy because on one side it has a calendar and ruler, and on the other it lists numbers that correspond with topics of dreams. How does it work? Dream topics = numbers = choices for lottery tickets. So, let’s say you wake up in the middle of the night with images of a chicken drinking wine in a eucalyptus tree, well that would equal 25 – 45 – 37, though I’m not yet sure how to best arrange the numbers themselves. Apparently the use of this system is quite widespread; I’ll have to ask someone who knows better how it all works. Stay tuned.

>yet another nice weekend in Argentina

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Since that storm back in March, it’s been sunny and warm, or sunny and cool, but not yet sunny and really too cold, and did I say yet that it just keeps on being sunny? It’s definitely fall (leaves are everywhere, pumpkins are in the markets), and it may be a lot colder soon. Scarves, hats, and mittens are showing up in window displays. But for now we still spend many outdoor afternoons – as long as you bring a sweater along.

Yesterday we spent the afternoon in Buenos Aires with friends Rachel and Gustavo (and their 3 kids). I dropped off an assortment of my recently-read books for Rachel, including Ann Patchett’s Patron Saint of Liars, Edith Wharton’s Age of Innocence, Amy Hempel’s Collected Short Stories. Good fiction in English is something we all crave overseas. This winter my sister-in-law Laura introduced me to GoodReads.com which works well for learning new titles too.

Soon we were joined by Julia Calhoun and her husband Rod Steel. Julia completes the triumvarate of women who lived together in a cool apartment near Praça de Londres in Lisbon in 1988-1989 (we three were fellow English teachers that year). Julia and Rod live in São Paulo and came down to visit Buenos Aires (and us old friends) for the weekend. Their 2-yr old son Blake stayed in Brazil with his grandparents (and for those of you who scrutinize people’s photos closely, yes, Julia is expecting baby #2!). We didn’t have nearly enough time to catch up as much as I’d wanted to, and I didn’t get to talk with Rod at all about his current documentary project on Santeria. Time for a visit to Brazil …

The truncated afternoon was our fault, we had already made plans for Chris and me to attend a concert of the Nuevo Cuarteto Argentino, playing Mozart and Dvorak in a small performance hall here in City Bell. Fantastic music with lots of “Bravos!” at the end.

our private wine lunch



After Achaval-Ferrer, we drove 80 km further south to a small house on a dirt road outside of the tiny town of La Consulta. Good thing we had a map. Our destination was the home of Facundo Suárez Lastra. My friend Jorge Rosales (the reporter/editor for La Nación) had given me Facundo’s contact info (after first checking with Facundo) when he’d heard that we were heading to Mendoza. Jorge had probably told me other details about Facundo too, but somehow they’d gotten lost in translation and all I could remember was that this guy was someone who lived in Mendoza and knew something about wine. A friend of a friend, I thought.

On our first night in Mendoza, Facundo met us around 10 pm at the restaurant where we were having dinner, we talked about wine a bit, and then made plans for a lunch at his house on Tuesday. Not an out-of-the-ordinary experience in Argentina. People are incredibly gracious here and will make you feel like you’ve known them for years.
When we finally arrived at his place (WAY out in the countryside), I felt like I was walking into a photo shoot for a Food & Wine article. Table set out on the lawn, grilling meats on the parilla, bottles of (his own) wine open and breathing. Over the course of lunch we learned that he had only been making wine for 8 or so years, that the land all around had been in his family for generations, that the malbec grapes all around were also the ones that Achaval-Ferrer (and many other places) used to make their prize winning wines. He sells 95% of his grapes to places like that and with his remaining 5% makes about 10,000 bottles/year under the name of Finca Suárez. All malbec, mostly in oak barrels.

After Facundo’s father died 10 years ago or so, the family land was divided among the children. Facundo’s own share was not even planted with vines then, it was just undeveloped land. The other siblings’ shares either had vines already or were fruit orchards (pears, apples). He said he’d been too busy “with work in Buenos Aires” to care which piece of land would be his. About 8 years ago he planted vines and began to make wine as a hobby; he was delighted with the term “gentleman farmer” when we suggested it. Over coffee he told us how all the older vines had been planted by his grandfather in the early 20th century, after he’d studied oenology in Europe. Somehow we got the sense that his grandfather had been important in the Argentine wine industry.

After lunch he drove us around in his pickup truck and showed us all his vineyards, then we went to the place where his wines are bottled and did a quick tasting in the “laboratorio” where blends are mixed. Very, very cool. And very good. With hugs and cheek kisses he then rushed back to Mendoza, as did we. Implicit in the afternoon was the discussion about whether Kevin’s company might want to import Facundo’s wines, which aren’t currently exported, and Kevin was sent off with several bottles to share/taste with his partners back in the US and promises for quick follow-up.
Altogether it was a delightful afternoon and one that we will remember always.
Ok, so what did I learn since then? When I got back I googled Facundo to see if I could figure out his grandfather’s connection to the Argentine wine industry, and perhaps why Jorge Rosales had once interviewed Facundo. Imagine my surprised amusement to learn that Facundo is a lawyer-politician with the Radical Civic Union party and was the mayor of Buenos Aires in the late 1980s. Prior to that he was the Secretary of the Interior (of the country) and the Secretary of Justice and Security in the capital city. Lots of newspaper articles where he’s quoted (including the NY Times and Washington Post) but hard to follow the story lines.

Politics certainly run in the Suarez family. Facundo’s father, also named Facundo, was Secretary of the Intelligence and Ambassador to Mexico, among other things. His uncle was Minister of Defense in the 1960s. And the grandfather who started it all? Minister of Public Works for the province of Mendoza, but also someone who spent years studying oenology in Europe, wrote numerous books and articles on the subject of Argentine wines, and was VP of the Society of Vitivinicultures of Mendoza. This last bit of family history comes from an article that was giving a very favorable review of one of Facundo’s wines. One that my brother Kevin may begin to import to the States.

Life is full of unexpected events!

wine tasting at Achaval-Ferrer




Tuesday was wine day. We started the day with a tour and tasting at Achaval-Ferrer, one of Argentina’s premier boutique wines. We had an amazing view of the Andes front range and kept pinching ourselves to see if it all was real. The bodega has been open for only 10 years and have earned one of those reputations worthy of their 98 point wines. It’s a tiny place and has a very hands-on approach to wine making. There’s one single corking machine with which they seal all 500-700 bottles/day that pass through. Their terroir malbec wines, especially the Finca Altamira, was outstanding, and we were only given barrel samples! Bought a bottle of the Quimera that we’ll keep for a special meal.

Argentina 2, Day 44 – the Andes




On Monday morning we helped to stimulate the Argentine economy by doing our fair share of shopping, then it was off to the mountains. Some clouds but none of the rain that had been forecast. It all looks a lot like the US Southwest – desert, red rocks, snowy mountains. On the morning news I’d heard about the mountain highway being closed to traffic because of a large snowstorm (something that often happens at the Chilean/Argentine border, like after this storm last year), and sure enough, at some point we were stopped by a highway patrol officer. But at that point we were all the way up in Upsalatta, a small town without much more than a mountain-base of the national guard, and it was getting dark, and the wines were waiting. Later that night we enjoyed a tasting at The Vines. I’m no good at remembering details of how each wine tasted, except that they were good and Kevin took a lot of mental notes. Eventually we made our way to a well-known Mendocino restaurant that was as busy as ever at 11 pm.

off to Mendoza


Last weekend we had two sets of visitors. Elvi came down on Saturday afternoon from Buenos Aires with her sister, Jacqui. On Sunday we were joined by my brother, Kevin Stuart, and his friend Tom Henriksen. Kevin and Tom both live in Los Angeles and have been friends since junior high (i.e., a long time). They’d arrived in Buenos Aires a few days earlier and had already experienced more night life and urban excitement than is even possible down here in tranquil City Bell. Kevin delivered MANY paperback books that I’d ordered for the kids, enough to keep up with their voracious reading habits until we leave, and then after a delicious asado we took off for the airport. Destination: Mendoza, a city on the western edge of the country, up next to the Andes. Mendoza is the center of Argentina’s wine production, with about 70% of the grapes grown in the province. Kevin’s a wine distributor and was interested in seeing what the Argentine fuss was all about. Tom and I were only too happy to accompany him on the journey. And as the kids said, mom was in need of “recharging her batteries.”

Argentina 2, Day 42


We’ve been here for 7 weeks and we leave 5 weeks from today. All novelty of seeing that we “can” live here again with our family of 5 (set up a household, attend school, work remotely, communicate with local merchants) has worn off. At times we’re frustratingly weary of the hassles (oh, have I overlooked the topic of endemic head lice in Argentina?) and we yearn for simple California routines. Else, we may get too used to the simple routines here. Like having a kilo of ice cream delivered after a late night dinner so we don’t have to leave the couch (which itself is vying for the “world’s most uncomfortable” prize) where we squeeze in together to watch “The Day After Tomorrow” on Chris’s laptop screen and laugh about the tidal wave that wiped out NYC. Argentina was looking like a good place to be in that movie! Only 5 more weeks to make more memories like that one. We’d better slow down and enjoy them.